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High-Waist Couture Facing

High-Waist Couture Facing

High-Waist Couture Facing

High-Waist Couture Facing
This couture approach to constructing a waist facing works well on any waistline where a waistband is not desired. It is particularly well suited to trousers and skirts with high waists. The channel stitching and the bones add structure and support while maintaining a clean line.

Sewing tools and materials:
Silk organza
Tailor’s canvas
Rigilene boning

Note
• This technique is most efficient when the facing extends 1.2cm (½”) below the natural waistline.
The couture facing technique.

1. Taping the waistline Prepare the garment as usual so it is ready for the facing. Now tape the waistline to prevent stretching during wear. This basic step is extremely important for all faced waistlines. Place stay tape over the seamline and stitch it in place.

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2. Interlining Interline the facing with silk organza and mark the stitching lines.
3. Channel stitching Remove the seam allowances from the interfacing and position it on the organza side of the facing, between the marked seamlines. Channel stitch through all thicknesses using 6mm (¼”) spacing. A walking foot may be helpful.

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4. Adding boning channels Add boning channels where required. The important locations include seams and the areas of the facing that correspond to dart placement on the garment. The channels should stop a generous 3mm (1⁄8″) short of any seamlines.

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Stitch through all the thicknesses, leaving the bottom end open.
5. Adding bones Insert bones into the boning channels. Stitch the lower ends of the boning channels, encasing the bones. It is wise to singe the ends of the bones so that they are less inclined to poke through.

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6. Finishing Trim away the excess channel, and finish the edge of the facing.

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Note
• To make boning channels, cut a long, 5cm (2″) wide strip of silk organza on the lengthways grain and fold it in half lengthways. Press. Cut into the lengths you need.

Style suggestion
• The high-waist couture facing may be used effectively on both trousers and skirts.